Hosted by London’s and presented by the , the contemporary-art fair has an experimental offshoot, Collect Open. And this year’s was decidedly female-focused: designer was the lead curator, and all but three of the 15 exhibitors were women. The largest installation, Curved Twist, was by textile designer and industrial designer .
“Although we’re in different disciplines, we both work with light and transformation,” McCaul says. They combined their fields of expertise to laser-cut thousands of acrylic rods, wrap them in dichroic film, slip them into sleeves of knitted Italian cotton, and stack the results to form an 8-by-10-foot freestanding screen that was not only color-changing but also interactive. Visitors could slide a plastic mechanism, made from recycled yogurt containers, up and down to manipulate the rods. Utzon-Frank compares it to twisting a bamboo sushi mat.